Brinsea Octagon Autoturn Cradle.

This shows a problem with a Brinsea Octagon Autoturn Cradle. Time-lapse taken with a Nikon Coolpix s1 at 30second intervals. I think the motor is faulty and needs replacing

The Octagon 20 Eco incubator is a simple but high quality egg incubator using the same tough and insulted cabinet as the Octagon 20 Advance coupled to a simple proven electronic temperature control to give reliable hatching results of a wide range of species with minimum fuss. Supplied with the optional autoturn cradle

Control system

Cabinet
The high quality incubator cabinet is entirely injection moulded from high grade ABS which makes it tough and easy to clean. The base is double skinned and foam filled to reduce heat loss leading to lower electricity consumption and better temperature distribution. The top of the incubator is clear allowing good visibility of the eggs and chicks.

Humidity and ventilation.

Egg Handling
To accommodate eggs of different sizes the Octagon 20 Eco's removable egg tray is supplied with dividers which the user can position to suit their eggs and so maximise the number of eggs that can be held. Eggs from as small as finches to as large as geese can be incubated and a guide to the numbers of a range of popular species which will fit is give in the specification table. Eggs are turned during incubation as the whole incubator is rocked from side to side – hence the Octagonal cabinet ends. This can be done manually at least twice each day or this turning is performed automatically if the incubator is supplied with the optional Autoturn Cradle which turns the eggs hourly.

Specifications:

Egg capacity (approx)
Quail 60
Pheasant 40
Hen 24
Duck 20
Goose 9/12

Weight
Incubator 2.7kg (6lbs)
Autoturn cradle 0.55Kg (1.2lbs)

Peugeot 205 Trio 1.1 - Head Gasket Change

One day, whilst driving home from work I noticed that the coolent level indicator on the dash suddenly flickered on then illuminated permentenly. I thought I haven't seen that before (in this car) but I'll just top the coolent up and bleed the system - or so I thought! It soon became apparent that after this symptom had repeated itself at ever regular intervals that the cylinder head gasket was dodgy.

 An additional symptom was excessive pressure in the coolent system, it was this that was pushing the water down in the radiator thereby triggering the low coolent level switch. The excess pressure would not go even if the car was stood for several days. If the cap of the expansion bottle was undone after a couple of days of none use pressure would be heard to release with bubbles comming from the radiator linking tube. 

To say that the cylinder head gasket had 'blown' was probably an overstatement. I suspected that gasses under compression in one of the cylinders were in fact being squeezed around/through the gasket into the water jacket like a one-way valve. Perhaps one or two very small bubbles at a time, but at 1000+ rpm they all add up.

The engine is of the TU1 type that had done 107000 miles without a gasket change to the best of my knowledge. I had suspected that the cylinder head gasket was not doing it's job for a while by virtue of a oil seepage from the front offside corner. Near this point a oil channel makes its way from the block to the head. This can be seen on quite a few old Puegeot TU type engines. After some diliberation as to whether the car was worth it and could I be bothered the only solution was to replace the cylinder head gasket. A factor in having a go myself was it had been a while since I had had the head off a car engine, the last being a 1978 Morris Marina (1.7) and a 1980 VW Polo (1.0); both with burnt out valves. So it was time to keep-my-end-in so to speak.


The following is a brief account of the job.

TU1 Engine Cylinder Head Removal

So as not to waste time on a potentially duff engine the coolent was drained followed by rocker cover removal then the head bolts cracked in the specified order. If one of the bolts had snapped in the block whilst undoing them then I probably would have pushed the car into the front garden until the neighbours started to complain that it was affecting thier house prices. A snapped bolt in the block can be removed somehow but it is a bigger job than I could be bothered with.

Old Gasket Postmortem ('Auto'psy)

The removed head gasket was in a poor condition as can be seen in the photograph. Parts of the it that were in contact with water has deteriated to such an extent that the metal ring part for the piston liner tops had seperated in some places. The visual evidence for where the gasket had eventually failed was quite subtle. The most likely point of failure can be seen in the photograph right at the bottom of the metal ring (6o'clock) it appears to have a fine possibly carbon track fron the piston side to the water jacket side. This photograph was taken after the old head gasket had dried out and the suspected failure point had become more apparent.

Preparing the Cylinder Head

Considerable time was spent on preparing the cylinder head and engine block surfaces in readyness for the new gasket. A bare stanley knife blade was used along it's entire cutting edge in a similar fashion to removing the exess paint off a window pain after painting the frame. I deemed the head to be finnished when as pictured the original machining marks were apparent. The head was not skimmed because it had not been subjected to a major overheat. It also was flat when a straight edge was offered up to it.

Reassembly

With both head and block surfaces prepared it was time to put it all back together. The cylinder head bolt holes were blown out using a foot pump to get rid of any debris that had fallen in them during old gasket removal. New bolts were used, these differed from originals in that they were star heads not hexagons. Reassembly was pretty much as the manual instructs. I planned to use a Laser tools angle indicator once initial first stage torquing had been done. It could not be used as intended however because it was of crap quality. The dial and its indicator needle both moved together as the head bolt was tightened!! Therefore in order to set the specified stage two angle I noted using the dial a suitable part in the engine bay (i.e bolt hole, bolt or bracket etc) and rotated the socket handle to another suitable engine bay part that coincided with the required angle. It was noticable that when tightenig force was released when the angle was achieved the star head of the bolt would spring back a few degrees. This was due to the torsion applied to the whole bolt.

New Cambelt

I didnot use a specialist tool to assertain correct cambelt tension because I did not have one. I considered a suitable tension to be that the belt could not be twisted more than 90 degrees with reasonable hand pressure. I knew this method to be subjective but comparison with other cars that have had belts changed at professional garages it did not seem an unreasonable risk to take. I considered buying a tool but a cheap one probably would not be consistant.

Summary

The car has now been used for a few thousand miles. So far the coolent level and pressure have been good. If I were to do the job again I would also change the valve stem oil seals as small quanties of blue smoke are emmited when the the engine is reved after it has been idling for a while say at traffic lights. I did not notice this before the head gasket change possibly because I was not looking for it. It has not got worse since the gasket change and it was not serious enough to fail it's MOT so I'll just keep topping the oil level up. The car starts well and has good performance.

Notes:

The Peugeot 205 is a supermini produced by the French car manufacturer Peugeotbetween 1983 and 1998. It was declared 'Car of the Decade' by CAR magazine in 1990. The 205 won 1984 What Car? car of the year.

This page was compiled wivout use ov gramma or spell cheka

Vauxhall Astra 1.4 LS (CN14NZ engine) - Cambelt Change and Associated Grief1.4 LS

MyVauxhall Astra 1.4 LS rattled especially after it was started. After a short period the rattle would go away. The car had done 110000 miles.


I looked up possible contributary faults in the Haynes Manual and on the Internet. Likely cause was the Hydraulic tappets playing up so the rocker cover was removed to expose said parts for examination.


The engine was rotated to Top Dead Center for all cylinders in tern to check if the clearences were way out which they were not. It was all put back together with nothing done. At this time I also checked the tension of the cambelt which seemed acceptable (i.e it could not be twisted more than 90 degrees without using reasonable hand force).


Obvoiusly after doing nothing to the car the rattle was still apparent. I bought a bottle of hyraulic tappet treatment liquid tipped it in but the rattle remained.


The car was reliable and it had acceptable performance but it just continued to rattle. I probably drove it for another thousand miles or so untill the was a step change with the rattle in that it was there all the time.


 Another symptom was also becoming evident in that with slight throttle control the rattle would briefly cease until the throttle was pressed again and vica-versa. Time to check the basics again. With the engine idling the trottle was blipped by hand using the connecting lever on the fuel injector. The source of the rattle was not clear but perhaps it was sort of near the top of the engine perhaps near the the cambelt end. Although I had checked the cambelt tension earlier I did it again but this time it was way out.


 It was at this point I determined the automatic tensioner had packed in. Maybe last time I checked the belt tension it was still just about working but intermitantly. Because the water pump is powered from the cambelt I decided to change that as well. It is recommened by professionals to do that anyway because generally speaking a cambelt failure is normally a result of something else failing.
The following is a brief account of the job which needless to say was not as straight forward as it could have been.

Cambelt Cover Removed

When the Cambelt cover was removed it could be seen that the belt was that slack it had been polishing up the left hand side of the cover a bitwhere it had been touching whilst flapping.


Also apparent on this picture is an indication of future grief to come. The water pump is just visible with bubbles eminating from around the sides. I watched a bubble grow and burst at this point and I thought it was strange as I had not needed to top the coolent up whilst using the car. However it was not a problem because I was going to change the water pump anyway

The Slack Belt

This is far too slack. The belt was also loose on the pulley. If it had been left much longer it would have come off and buggered the cylinder head valves up by virtue of the pistons kissing the valves.

Removing the Alternator Drive Pulley

To remove the cambelt the alternator drive pulley must be removed. The Haynes manual recommends geting an assistant ( in my case the old man) to put his foot on the break whilst undoing the bolt.


 The problem with this is that the bolt was that tight that the handle of the socket bar being used was obstucted by the engine support before all the drive train slack had been taken up. It also occured to me whilst doing this I'd better purchase a Hi-torque socket because they have considerably less chance of slipping off the bolt and rounding the corners.


Once a stiff bolt in a hard-to-get-to place starts to round off then the chances of you getting it undone deminish exponentially. Bad language is often a bye product.


I left the job until a suitable socket was obtained. In the intervening period I mentioned this problem to a pal who has considerably more practical engineering experiance than me. He suggested sticking the car in gear, jamming the sockect handle against bulkhead or engine support then pushing the car in the appropriate direction to undo the bolt. I tried it and it worked, did not even need an assistant.

Additional Cam Belt Cover Damage

When the pulley was removed it exposed the lower part of the Cam belt cover. For some reason it was loose hand had been worn away in parts by the the alternater drive pulley. The preceding picture also shows evidence of this.

The Removed Cam Belt Cover

The cam belt tensioner was removed prior to removing the largest cover. The tensioner bearing was still free runing with very little play. However the spring lever part of the assembly was seized solid. I was expecting it to have a rattling bearing to account for the noise experianced when the engine was running. something else must be causing the rattle I thought
This photo shows how slack the cam belt had become. There are a least three areas that have worn completly through.

Water Pump Removal

To remove the coolent pump three bolts required undoing except there were only two! The lowest one had corroded off. The other two snapped off when the spanner was applied -- BUGGER!


The whole thing was starting to look a mess
Considerable time was spent cleaning up the engine block so that a realistic apprasal could be made to the viability of sorting it out.

The Removed Coolent Pump

Corrosion was so advanced that the pump fell apart when removed. I read some where that the pump can be bashed out from behind if the water hose is removed. I considered doing this but since the large hose appeared in good shape I left it alone for fear of breaking some of the corroded block surrounding the coolent pump.

Drilling out the Old Bolts

Accessability is the main problem when working on a car. If what you needed to fix was on a bench infront of you car maintenance would be rather easier. Drilling out old bolts should be straight forward but not when the engine compartment side wall is in the way. 


Right angle drill attachements are made for this type of thing in mind. After measuring the available space and a trip to Machine Mart the Clarke model was purchased together with some high quality drill bits. 


The drill bits were shortened using a Black and Decker minidrill fitted with a cutting disk.
Two of the bolts were drilled right through but it was not possible with the remaining one so with carefull drill alignment (and a bit of luck) the remainder of the bolt was removed with about 75% of thread still serviceable.

Putting it all Back Together

The block was treated with rust converter then primed. A new coolent pump, tensioner and cam belt cover were fitted.
Note the new bolt that goes through the coolent pump housing.

Putting it all Back Together Some More

Care was taken not ot over tighten the bolt which had the damaged threads. Locktight was used in order to help it stay in position. It is my belief that this part of the Vauxhall Astra engine was designed by someone who had never worked on a car before overseen by supervisors and drawing checkers who were also pretty clueless.


 The water pump is part of the cam belt tensioning arrangement so has to be slackened off using small bolts that are difficult to access. Fortunately I was adjusting it with a engine drained of coolent. The C14NZ engine does not have a master drain plug, to fully drain it the pump and hoses need to come off - where is the bucket suposed to go. There is probably a technique to get around this dubious bit of engine design.


However once it is done it should not need doing for a considerable period of time. The remainder of reassembly was in line with the Haynes manual. Antifreeze/corrosion inhibiter was added to the coolent when refilled. I suspect because the car is not the most straight forward to drain meant that changing antifreeze was over looked when in private hands and hence the corrosion set in. I'll not think too much what other parts of the engine are like.

Summary

The car does not rattle any more and the engine is quiet. I think the rattle eminated from the cam followers due to the cam shaft not been driven properly. Perhaps it was the chaffing of the cam belt on it's covers but I would not have expected that t be a metal sounding rattle. Well it is sorted now.

Notes:

Astra is a model name which has been used by Vauxhall, the British subsidiary of General Motors (GM), on their small family car ranges since 1979. Astras are technically essentially identical with similar vehicles offered by GM's German subsidiary Opel in most other European countries


This page was compiled wivout use ov gramma or spell cheka